Author: Dr. Nasratullah Hewadwall

Around 2 years ago, I traveled to the ancient city of Herat along with my friends, and after meetings there, I joined my friends and we visited IKHTYARUDDIN CASTLE.

Herat

In 2004, the city of Herat was inscribed on the UNESCO Tentative List for World Heritage Sites. Over the centuries, it has been of strategic, commercial and cultural significance to the wider region. The history of Herat has been one of repeated destruction and reconstruction. Conqueror after conqueror, from the time of Alexander the Great, has taken it, destroyed it and then rebuilt it. (1)

Herat is a secure place for tourism and living. The city has a lot to offer and attracts many travelers who come to see unique sites such as the tomb of poet Jami, windmills from the 7^th century, historic minarets, and of course to try the delicious local food. Herat is famous for Kichiri Goshti (known as “Meat Kichiri,” which is rich in taste and quite fatty. Locals enjoy it especially in the winter season, but it’s popular in other seasons as well. And the second famous meal is Chainaki, which people from all provinces of Afghanistan like. Herat is also famous for Herati sweets.

The Citadel

Captured by Alexander the Great in 330 BC during his war against the Achaemenids, the town was developed, and a citadel built. To this day, Qala e Ikhtyaruddin (Ikhtyaruddin Castle) remains one of the oldest extant structures in the center of Herat city, built on the site of the ancient citadel. “The layout of battlements and towers that survive is thought to date from the early 14th century AD, when the Karts re-built a fortress that had been destroyed by the Mongols. Situated at the northern edge of the square-plan old city, the citadel was during the 15th and 16th centuries AD the seat of the Timurid rulers, and was part of the architectural works undertaken by Shah Rukh, who commissioned the tilework that can still be seen on several towers. The citadel underwent conservation in the 1970s.” (2)

What I find fascinating about the castle is how this building has been used by many empires over time, for different functions: for some it became their headquarters, for others it became a structure that defended them from their enemies. As a single building it represents distinct periods of my country’s history.

I still remember how the first gate of the castle was made out of wood and covered by beautiful iron elements. The second door (Gate 2) was even more impressive, it was fully covered by metal ornaments. In the yards, there are many small rooms with beautiful wooden windows and doors, and it seems as if the whole castle has been constructed by raw bricks. Also, the castle is surrounded by 13 towers and it is divided into two parts. In the middle of the castle there is another gate, which leads to separate soldier barracks and to the King’s Place (Haram Saray). Gate 2 leads you to where the King resided.

The people of Herat told me that Alexander the Great was the first one to separate the castle into two parts. The second part consists of many big halls with small and big rooms. They also said that the first original castle was built by a girl with the name Shamshera, the daughter of an Aryan king.

While I was there, I also went to see an exhibition. I saw many pictures there, from Afghan kings, photos of soldiers in military uniform, to photos of Afghan women in traditional clothes. I enjoyed it a lot. Apart from the many historical photos, there were were also ancient artifacts. I also spent some time flipping through a guestbook. Many tourists wrote about their visit of this castle. The notebook was in a special room on a desk, a very interesting desk with a chair, and had at least a thousand of pages.

When you look deeper into the history of the city of Herat, you will be able to see how thriving it was, and how many different stories come together here. The city, and the castle really deserve a visit.

So in the last line I encourage all of you to visit this ancient place, which will bring the Afghan people closer to you, their culture, and their desire for art and architecture.

1. More information about Herat: http://www.afghanembassyjp.com/en/life/?pn=12
2. https://whc.unesco.org/en/tentativelists/1927/

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