Cooling off in Panjshir

Author: Abdul Aziz Beheshti

Panjshir province, 125km north of Kabul, has been a favorite destination for me to be with myself, to reflect, and to enjoy the beautiful nature, feeling safe and secure. The province, itself a valley, occupies around 3.610 km2 in between mountains on both sides and is composed of at least 19 smaller valleys that reach from the northeast to the southwest. Each valley plays not only an important role in tourism but also livelihood activities.

Despite the general ambience that draws me to the region, I always seem to find a reason to visit, often it is linked to a specific season, as in each season this mountainous province has so much to offer, its nature, traditions, hospitality, meals, fresh and dry fruits, and traditional music.

Just recently, on Thursday, July 11, 2019 to be precise, I looked at my watch and it was 01:00 PM. It was still early but I could not tolerate sitting at my Kabul office desk any longer. I felt extremely stressed and started uncontrollably picking up my belongings and packing my stuff. I rushed out and left the office for home. Still breathing heavily from the hot weather of Kabul, I had to change my clothes. Spontaneously, I whatsapped my friends to see if they felt like accompanying me on a trip: A picnic in Panjshir. Not something my friends would usually say no to, so most of them were on board. I started driving and during the two and half hours drive from Kabul to Panjshir, we did not make any stops until after we entered Panjshir through a street called Rah-e Tang, which runs along a river, and is famous for its narrowness. 

Firaj, the first sub-valley in Panjshir, Afghanistan


 

Kabul was very hot and during the whole trip I was thinking about somewhere cold, a nice greenery or a riverside to relax. After making quick stops to shop in grocery stores and butcher shops, my imagination turned into reality and we reached one of the 19 sub-valleys called Shalzor in the Paryan district of Panjshir.

We looked for a nice spot, and only had to walk five minutes from the street to find the ideal place. Besides many other things that are pleasant about traveling to the region, is that you can choose your own spot for camping or for picnics wherever you like and they are free of cost. You will just have to take care of your environment, and bring the right gear to be safe in nature.

The way it works with my friends – everything is a team effort; one team sat up the two tents for camping with a front view to the river and mountains in the background.

Riverside Camping, Panjshir, Afghanistan


 

Another team (including me) took take care of preparing the food. I quickly went up to everyone and asked them about their preference for dinner. Most of us wished for Palaw, which is basically rice cooked with goat meat and garlic accompanied by salad. It took me and my team only 1 hour and 20 minutes to prepare the meal. Good team work! J 

Rice cooked with goat meat, garlic and salad


 

There are many reasons to enjoy the weekend stay in Panjshir! You can see the milky way at night, feel the sunshine during the day, you have a river to swim in, and the nature and the mountains to hike in. You are almost disconnected with the internet, but you can make calls if required.

In the early morning, one of my friends and I, had the time, opportunity, and energy to start hiking. We left a message with our friends about our destination: a scenic outpost in the mountain visible from our camping place. After around one and a half hours of a gradual hike, through which we drunk tea, prepared meals, and took some nice photos, we came across a horse who did pretty much the same that we did earlier – it found a sunny spot to lie down and relax in 😉

Me taking a break by the river

 

A horse is basking in the sun


We did not pause for about half an hour of walking through a mountain pass, until we could see careless goats and sheep passing by kicking loose stones downward. We had to wait until they were gone. We were lucky enough not to be on the same side as them on the mountain.

Me and a winter avalanche that wanted to block the river, but failed to do so


 

We started climbing down and got back to our camping place at around 11:30 AM. Everything about our hike was tremendously nice and we joined our other friends, who were swimming, in good spirits.

At around 3:00 PM we headed back to Kabul and on our way back to Kabul, we stopped at Saricha in Panjshir, the National Hero Ahmad Shah Massoud’s mausoleum. We quickly prayed for his soul and resumed driving back to Kabul. On the way back to Kabul, we made another stop, this time to eat fresh berries.
 

 

Panorama view of National Hero Ahmad Shah Massoud’s mausoleum, Panjshir, Afghanistan


 

Panjshir’s fresh berries