Esterházy Allure
By: Christiane von Linz
Eisenstadt – the regional capital of Austria’s Burgenland region gained importance during the Esterházy dynasty and the rise of classical composer Franz Joseph Haydn.1
A few balmy days hanging out in this quaint city of just 14,000 gave me the chance to immerse myself in its rich culture and musical heritage.
Eisenstadt owes much of its widespread cultural fame to the vision of the Esterházy princes. Blue-blooded Hungarians, these influential noblemen acquired the city’s 13th century baroque castle in 1649, transforming it into a prominent center of courtly life and thriving cultural hotspot. During their 300-year reign, Haydn’s genius emerged.
Prince Paul Anton II, a patron of music, is credited with appointing 29-year-old Haydn as the court music director in 1761.2 For over forty years, many of Haydn’s glorious compositions were premiered here in the Esterházy palace’s Concert Hall.3
Touring the stately venue, I find myself flooded in red; rows of red velvet cushioned seats and brocaded window drapings. Spellbound, I daydream, sweet strains of violin melodies echoing off gold-paneled walls and frescoed ceilings. Strolling into the adjacent palace grounds, the Greek-inspired Leopoldinen Temple beside a pond brimming with waterlilies, evokes fantasies of the once-upon-a-time secret outings of the Esterházy nobility.
Haydn House, the composer’s long-time residence, sits adjacent to the town square and invites visitors to tour through his extraordinary life. Hand-written manuscripts, musical instruments, and other memorabilia are showcased while a multimedia presentation offers a glimpse into the day-to-day life of the beloved composer.
It was March 31, 1732 when Baby Haydn came into the world in Rohrau, a rural village on the Hungarian border. Although his parents had no formal musical training, father Mathias loved folk music and had taught himself to play the harp. Family sing-a-longs became a regular practice fostering Haydn’s talent to eventually become an accomplished composer who in addition to his own work, influenced his contemporaries Mozart and Beethoven.4 5
The annual Haydn festival held late August since 1989 showcases his timeless works to classical music aficionados from near and far.6
In the sunny courtyard of Haydn’s modest birthplace, a thatched roof farmhouse, I reflect on his great symphonies, string quartets, masses, and concertos. Indeed a life well lived. Thank you for the music!
Sources:
1 https://www.biography.com/people/franz-joseph-haydn-9332156
2 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paul_II_Anton,_Prince_Esterházy
3 https://esterhazy.at/en/esterhazypalace/index.do4
4 https://www.biography.com/people/wolfgang-mozart-94171155
5 https://www.biography.com/people/ludwig-van-beethoven-92048626
6 https://www.haydnfestival.at