Imperial Splendor

By Christiane Von Linz

Vienna owes much of her imperial glory and splendor to the grand Habsburg Dynasty, which ruled a vast stretch of central Europe for six centuries from its capital city Vienna.¹ Germans by origin, the Habsburg family gained power when Pope Gregory X needed support for a new crusade. To secure a counterweight to the King of Sicily, he persuaded the German princes to elect Count Rudolph of Habsburg as the new emperor in 1273.²

Growing up in Austria, I’ve heard many stories about the vast Habsburg monarchy, ruling much of Europe for over six centuries until 1918. Also known as the Austro-Hungarian Empire, it included present-day Austria and Hungary, extended from the Kingdom of Bohemia across present day Czech Republic and Slovakia, down south to Slovenia and Croatia. Parts of present-day Poland, Romania, Serbia, Ukraine, and Italy were acquired through marriages.

Fast forward to 2017. It’s another gorgeous summer day and I’m back in my homeland under the Viennese sky. The Habsburg reign has long ended but its rich heritage is etched into the pompous palaces, monumental museums, and neo-gothic city hall dominating the imperial Ring Road. Thanks to the millions of public funds the Austrian government has been pouring into preserving the nation’s rich cultural heritage, visitors and locals alike can enjoy Vienna’s breathtaking architecture, a fusion of ancient and modern styles. One of the most famous landmarks along the imperial Ring Road, the Staatsoper,³ became Vienna’s principal performance venue since Mozart’s Don Giovanni was premiered here in 1869.

I’m staying at the Austria Trend Hotel.⁴ Just a couple of miles from the Opera House, the Imperial Hofburg Palace, and a few steps from the subway station,⁵ this chic four-star residence is quite the ideal location. With speedy trains running every three minutes in both directions, getting around in Vienna is quick and fun.

Hopping off the subway at Schönbrunn palace is like stepping back into a slice of Austria’s grand past.⁶ A time that gave rise to one of Austria’s grandest musical traditions: the Viennese Waltz. Emerging in the late 18th century from the German Dance and Austrian Ländler, the waltz gained immense popularity during the Congress of Vienna in the early 19th century. Ever since then, the waltzes of Johann Strauss have dominated Viennese social life, keeping the three quarter beat going for generations to come.⁷

Daydreaming, I’m left speechless like those picture snapping tourists swarming about, oohing and ahing, soaking in the brilliance of this former summer residence. The elaborate landscaped palace grounds of this UNESCO World Heritage Site is a scene to behold and so is the airy Gloriette pavilion towering over pooling marble fountains. Ambling past eye-catching floral designs, I try to envision the times when Empress Maria Theresia ruled over the land.⁸

The one and only female ruler in the House of Habsburg, she ascended to the throne in 1740 at the young age of 23 after the death of her father, Emperor Charles VI. A visionary ahead of her time, during her 40-year reign, this fierce ruler, strategist, mother, reformer, paved the way for compulsory education, promoted commerce and agriculture, restructured the military, and supported human rights. Her love marriage to Emperor Francis I produced a staggering 16 offspring. To this day, Empress Maria Theresia remains one of the most influential and revered women in Austrian history. This year’s Jubilee Exhibition commemorates her 300-year birth anniversary on May 13, 1717.

Another royal is equally revered throughout Austria. Empress Elisabeth, lovingly referred to as Empress Sissi. Not so much for her accomplishments but rather for her flawless beauty that captivated everyone she encountered including Emperor Franz Josef I.⁹ At the age of 16, this free-spirited Bavarian Princess stole His Majesty’s heart, thrusting her into a very strict court life at the Hofburg Imperial Palace right in the heart of Vienna.¹⁰ To escape her rigid, daily life, Sissi became obsessed with her beauty and constant maintenance regimen, spending hours in her chamber for grooming and dressing. Today, touring Sissi’s private quarters in this six-century-old Habsburg residence one can learn all about her not-so-happy life that ended on quite a tragic note.

Over the centuries, the Hofburg has been a treasure trove of Austrian culture and heritage, housing the Treasuries of the Imperial Palace.¹¹ The crown jewels of the monarchy, the gem-studded tiaras and crowns, elaborate necklaces and regal gowns, displayed in polished glass cases offer a rare glimpse into the wealth of a once select few. It is also here, under its shiny, gold trimmed cupola, where the Austrian President conducts his business affairs, while in another wing the unmatched equestrian artistry of the famous Lipizzaner stallions of the Spanish Riding School is showcased in velvet draped marble halls.

But nothing of this would have come about without the heroism of Prince Eugene of Savoy.¹² In his very first battle, this 20-year-old French born nobleman and his army defeated the Ottoman Empire in the Battle of Vienna in 1683. This crucial victory marked the beginning of the end of Turkish domination on the eastern borders of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, ensuring the survival of its rich heritage, culture, and Roman Catholic faith. Named the “Savior of the West”, Prince Eugene was the most decorated and successful military commander. Under his heroic leadership, the grandest expansion of the Habsburg Empire took place, fortifying Europe against the Islamic military expansion.

Today, as another visit to Vienna nears its end, I take one last look at the immortal statue of Prince Eugene dominating the famous Heldenplatz, wondering how life would have turned out if Vienna had fallen to the Turks. As I walk on, enjoying another fabulous view of the grand cityscape, I can’t imagine anything else except wishing to be back soon. I sure hope you’ll join me on this experience for all your senses. Vienna waits for you…

Links to Christiane’s website and blog:

christianevonlinz.com

travelsonataincmajor.wordpress.com

The Sound of Vienna by Jose Feliciano: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ubSHAb0fTk
The Rise and Fall of Austria and the Habsburg Empire Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyLSUZ1qlVM

Below is a gallery of wonderful photos from Christiane’s time exploring Vienna; click on each photo to view it full-size: